A post by Valerie Collins co-writer of "In the Garlic"
http://inthegarlic.com/2011/12/spanish-christmas-customs-5-saints-and-canelons/
Thursday, 29 December 2011
Saturday, 24 December 2011
Christmas in Spain
by Robert Bovington
Spain is especially enjoyable during the Christmas season. Firstly the weather is so much better, but the main reason is that we do not have to put up with the sheer commercialism that is so prevalent in the UK. In Britain, stores seem to start selling Christmas items as soon as the summer holidays finish. Until quite recently, traditional Christmas goods did not appear in Spanish shops until December. They now appear in November. I hope Spain doesn't go the same way as the UK.
The actual act of celebrating Christmas goes on for much longer than in the UK but I find it enjoyable. For a couple of weeks before Christmas nativity scenes are displayed in churches, town halls and shops in all the towns and villages. Every year in Roquetas and Almería there is usually a superb display that includes hundreds of figures and buildings - some of them working models!
The main Christmas events, though, centres around two days, Christmas Eve and Three Kings day. Christmas Eve is the time when families get together for the traditional feast. Every member of the family from great grandparents to the tiniest baby dress up in their best clothes and tuck in to a veritable feast. The meal usually starts around 9pm and the food is not like the traditional British Christmas dinner. No roast turkey and definitely no sprouts! First of all great quantities of seafood are eaten such as prawns, squid and salmon. This is followed by the main course, which could be another fish dish or meat. After the meal the family relax over coffee, liqueurs and turron - a nougat type sweet. The adults open their presents. The children may get a present but their main day for receiving gifts is Three Kings Day. At midnight some members of the family might go to church to celebrate Midnight Mass, others may stay at home to celebrate the birth of Christ with champagne. For the Spanish the night is yet young and so they they will probably go out and party until dawn. I will be getting my beauty sleep while they're doing that. I need it!
Christmas day is a fiesta day with shops, offices and banks all closed. Unlike the other Spanish fiestas though there are no processions or celebrations - they are probable at home nursing sore heads. Boxing Day is not celebrated in Spain and so December the 26th is just another normal day for the Spanish. Christmas is not yet over though!
On the 6th January the Spanish commemorate Three Kings Day, which celebrates the day on which the Three Wise Men arrived in Bethlehem bringing gifts for baby Jesus. It is the highlight of Christmas for children. Father Christmas doesn't deliver presents to Spanish children. It is probably too hot for the reindeer! Las niños español don't miss out, however. The Three Kings arrive overnight on the 5th January, riding horses, and leaving presents for the children who will probably have left some food out for the horses. The children make their way into town to see the Procession of the Three Kings, which is always a spectacular event. During the procession, tons of sweets are thrown from the floats for the children to catch. The wiser youngsters take carrier bags to collect the goodies!
Sandwiched between Christmas Eve and Three Kings Day is New Years Eve. This is celebrated in much the same way as in the UK and many families will eat out on this night and the restaurants are always full. At midnight the Spanish see the New Year in with Cava (the Spanish equivalent of champagne) and grapes! The custom is that you have twelve grapes and you eat one on each chime of the Spanish equivalent of Big Ben! Of course the festivities do not end there. Partying goes on until at least dawn as New Years Day is another holiday which allows the population to recover from the excesses of the night before.
Christmas Lights in Almería
belén (nativity scene) in a shop window in Almería
a small part of the belén the Rambla Almería
Spain is especially enjoyable during the Christmas season. Firstly the weather is so much better, but the main reason is that we do not have to put up with the sheer commercialism that is so prevalent in the UK. In Britain, stores seem to start selling Christmas items as soon as the summer holidays finish. Until quite recently, traditional Christmas goods did not appear in Spanish shops until December. They now appear in November. I hope Spain doesn't go the same way as the UK.
The actual act of celebrating Christmas goes on for much longer than in the UK but I find it enjoyable. For a couple of weeks before Christmas nativity scenes are displayed in churches, town halls and shops in all the towns and villages. Every year in Roquetas and Almería there is usually a superb display that includes hundreds of figures and buildings - some of them working models!
The main Christmas events, though, centres around two days, Christmas Eve and Three Kings day. Christmas Eve is the time when families get together for the traditional feast. Every member of the family from great grandparents to the tiniest baby dress up in their best clothes and tuck in to a veritable feast. The meal usually starts around 9pm and the food is not like the traditional British Christmas dinner. No roast turkey and definitely no sprouts! First of all great quantities of seafood are eaten such as prawns, squid and salmon. This is followed by the main course, which could be another fish dish or meat. After the meal the family relax over coffee, liqueurs and turron - a nougat type sweet. The adults open their presents. The children may get a present but their main day for receiving gifts is Three Kings Day. At midnight some members of the family might go to church to celebrate Midnight Mass, others may stay at home to celebrate the birth of Christ with champagne. For the Spanish the night is yet young and so they they will probably go out and party until dawn. I will be getting my beauty sleep while they're doing that. I need it!
Christmas day is a fiesta day with shops, offices and banks all closed. Unlike the other Spanish fiestas though there are no processions or celebrations - they are probable at home nursing sore heads. Boxing Day is not celebrated in Spain and so December the 26th is just another normal day for the Spanish. Christmas is not yet over though!
On the 6th January the Spanish commemorate Three Kings Day, which celebrates the day on which the Three Wise Men arrived in Bethlehem bringing gifts for baby Jesus. It is the highlight of Christmas for children. Father Christmas doesn't deliver presents to Spanish children. It is probably too hot for the reindeer! Las niños español don't miss out, however. The Three Kings arrive overnight on the 5th January, riding horses, and leaving presents for the children who will probably have left some food out for the horses. The children make their way into town to see the Procession of the Three Kings, which is always a spectacular event. During the procession, tons of sweets are thrown from the floats for the children to catch. The wiser youngsters take carrier bags to collect the goodies!
Sandwiched between Christmas Eve and Three Kings Day is New Years Eve. This is celebrated in much the same way as in the UK and many families will eat out on this night and the restaurants are always full. At midnight the Spanish see the New Year in with Cava (the Spanish equivalent of champagne) and grapes! The custom is that you have twelve grapes and you eat one on each chime of the Spanish equivalent of Big Ben! Of course the festivities do not end there. Partying goes on until at least dawn as New Years Day is another holiday which allows the population to recover from the excesses of the night before.
Christmas Lights in Almeríabelén (nativity scene) in a shop window in Almeríaa small part of the belén the Rambla AlmeríaWednesday, 21 December 2011
Spanish Christmas Customs 2 : building the belén | In the Garlic
Another interesting article by Theresa O'Shea...
Spanish Christmas Customs 2 : building the belén | In the Garlic:
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| belén in the Bovington household |
Spanish Christmas Customs 1- Fleecing the relatives | In the Garlic
This article is not one of mine but Theresa O'Shea's, joint author along with Valerie Collins of "In the Garlic". Both Theresa and Valerie have written extremely interesting anecdotes about life in Spain....
Spanish Christmas Customs 1- Fleecing the relatives | In the Garlic
Thursday, 15 December 2011
Gaudí
Antoni Gaudí
by Robert Bovington
He was an extremely original exponent of Art Nouveau who disliked straight lines as demonstrated by the wavy façade of Casa Milá. He used colourful collages of appliqué materials to add further ornamentation to the surfaces of his structures.
Seven of his Barcelona accomplishments are World Heritage sites. They are Casa Milá, Casa Vicens, Casa Batlló, Palau Güell, the crypt in Colonia Güell, Park Güell and the Sagrada Familia church.
by Robert Bovington
He was an extremely original exponent of Art Nouveau who disliked straight lines as demonstrated by the wavy façade of Casa Milá. He used colourful collages of appliqué materials to add further ornamentation to the surfaces of his structures.
Seven of his Barcelona accomplishments are World Heritage sites. They are Casa Milá, Casa Vicens, Casa Batlló, Palau Güell, the crypt in Colonia Güell, Park Güell and the Sagrada Familia church.
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| Sagrada Familiaphoto: public domain |
Gaudí was born in 1852 in Catalonia. He died in 1926 having been run over by a tram and, fittingly, was buried in La Sagrada Família.
Gaudí was a Spanish architect who worked mostly in Barcelona which contains some superb examples of his brilliantly inventive work - like the enormous, but unfinished cathedral, La Sagrada Familia; the fascinating Parc Güell and Casa Milá with its wacky rooftop.
Gaudí was a Spanish architect who worked mostly in Barcelona which contains some superb examples of his brilliantly inventive work - like the enormous, but unfinished cathedral, La Sagrada Familia; the fascinating Parc Güell and Casa Milá with its wacky rooftop.
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| by Lorus Maver |
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| The wacky rooftop of Casa Milá photo: public domain |
Wednesday, 14 December 2011
Blogosfera
Turismodealmeria's 'blogosphere'! - a useful site for viewing blogs about the diverse province of Almería...
Tuesday, 13 December 2011
Aragón
Aragón is an autonomous community in Northern Spain comprising the provinces of Huesca, Zaragoza and Teruel.
Zaragoza, the capital, with its many magnificent buildings, and the spectacular Ordesa National Park are both in Aragón. What else is Aragón famous for apart from Henry VIII's wife, Catherine? - well skiing for a start. The Pyrenees of Aragón are situated in the north-east of the region in the province of Huesca and include great peaks and secluded valleys that have retained their unspoiled beauty due to their inaccessibility.
Teruel in the south of the region is famous for its Mudéjar-style architecture. The city of Huesca also has many fine buildings, especially churches.
There are a number of other places of note in Aragón. Jaca, a city in the province of Huesca, has many notable landmarks that include the 10th century Romanesque cathedral, and the Citadel, which was begun in 1593 and recently restored. The city was a favourite residence of the Aragónese kings.
Another interesting place in Huesca, is Barbastro, a town of Roman origin that has a number of medieval attractions including the 16th century cathedral. Orchards and vineyards surround the town and the excellent Somontano wines are produced in this neighbourhood.
Near Babastro lies the medieval village of Alquézar, which is dominated by a beautiful building that is both castle and church - the Colegiata is the high point of one of the prettiest villages in Aragón. From this strategic position there are panoramic views across the surrounding countryside.
Describing the beauty of this area of Spain one could easily be lost for words - maybe that is why there are so many languages spoken in this region! In addition to Spanish, spoken by the entire population, there is an original Aragónese language, still spoken in some valleys of the Pyrenees. Catalan is spoken in areas close to the adjacent region of Catalonia and a number of dialects persist elsewhere in the region.
text extracted from "Spanish Impressions" by Robert Bovington
ISBN 978-1-4452-2543-2 available from http://www.lulu.com
also available in e-book format from Lulu and in Kindle format from http://www.amazon.co.uk/ , http://www.amazon.com/, http://www.amazon.es/ etc
Zaragoza, the capital, with its many magnificent buildings, and the spectacular Ordesa National Park are both in Aragón. What else is Aragón famous for apart from Henry VIII's wife, Catherine? - well skiing for a start. The Pyrenees of Aragón are situated in the north-east of the region in the province of Huesca and include great peaks and secluded valleys that have retained their unspoiled beauty due to their inaccessibility.
Teruel in the south of the region is famous for its Mudéjar-style architecture. The city of Huesca also has many fine buildings, especially churches.
 |
| Teruel - Mudéjar architecture © Robert Bovington |
Another interesting place in Huesca, is Barbastro, a town of Roman origin that has a number of medieval attractions including the 16th century cathedral. Orchards and vineyards surround the town and the excellent Somontano wines are produced in this neighbourhood.
Near Babastro lies the medieval village of Alquézar, which is dominated by a beautiful building that is both castle and church - the Colegiata is the high point of one of the prettiest villages in Aragón. From this strategic position there are panoramic views across the surrounding countryside.
Describing the beauty of this area of Spain one could easily be lost for words - maybe that is why there are so many languages spoken in this region! In addition to Spanish, spoken by the entire population, there is an original Aragónese language, still spoken in some valleys of the Pyrenees. Catalan is spoken in areas close to the adjacent region of Catalonia and a number of dialects persist elsewhere in the region.
text extracted from "Spanish Impressions" by Robert Bovington
ISBN 978-1-4452-2543-2 available from http://www.lulu.com
also available in e-book format from Lulu and in Kindle format from http://www.amazon.co.uk/ , http://www.amazon.com/, http://www.amazon.es/ etc
Monday, 12 December 2011
Sunday, 11 December 2011
Tapas
There are a number of schools of thought as to how the excellent Spanish custom of having a tapa with a drink came about. A popular theory is that the practice started in Sevilla. Something was needed to prevent flies, especially the minute fruit flies, from getting into peoples' drinks. The solution was to put a piece of bread on top of the glass, to keep out the flies between sips. The idea of balancing an extra morsel of food on top of the bread was then thought of and tapas were born. The word tapa actually means lid or cover in Spanish. Another theory is that small morsels of food were served with a glass of wine to travellers who had stopped briefly at a country inn but who were too rushed to get down from their horse. I prefer the first version - the latter doesn't ring true. I mean, come on, Spaniards too busy to stop for a meal! No way - especially if it is true that the practice started in Andalucía!
Even if the idea of serving a tapa with a drink did actually originate in Andalucía, it is now a national institution. I think it is a delightful custom - a couple of drinks and a few tapas is a splendid way of socialising with pleasant company!
Some people say that having a tapa with your drink is not a right. However, it is usually given, although it does depend on the time of day. I have never really been sure whether one should ask or not. Some would say it is bad form. Yet, on a couple of occasions when I have not requested a tapa with my beer, I did not receive one. This, I admit, has not happened too often and is usually when they think I am an English tourist who does not know any better. Locally, I know the best tapas bars and, at most of them, I ask for the tapa of my choice. In some bars you get what you are given which is not good news for the vegetarian if you get a dish of carne con ajillo - meat in garlic sauce. Even if you ask for habas - broad beans - you are likely to get pieces of cured ham in it.
So, what are the popular tapas? Lomo - loin of pork - is a popular choice. I like boquerones fritos - fried anchovies that are a bit like whitebait and the popular Spanish sausages - morcilla and chorizo. Other tapas commonly served are:
carne con tomate | pork in a rich tomato sauce |
pinchos | kebabs - normally of spicy pork |
calamares | rings of squid - normally fried in batter |
jamón | cured ham |
aceitunas | olives |
albóndigas | meatballs |
ensaladilla rusa | Russian salad - a sort of potato salad |
gambas | prawns |
patatas bravas | fried potato cubes in a spicy tomato sauce |
puntillitas | battered and fried baby squid. |
queso | cheese |
tortilla de patatas | Spanish omelette |
pulpo a la vinagreta | small pieces of octopus in a vinaigrette dressing |
caracoles | snails |
chipirones | cuttlefish |
Thursday, 8 December 2011
Andalucía in pictures
Photos of the fantastic region of Andalucía on my Panoramio site.
http://www.panoramio.com/user/2391258/tags/Andalusia
Hope you like them
Robert Bovington
http://www.panoramio.com/user/2391258/tags/Andalusia
Hope you like them
Robert Bovington
Andalucía
by Robert Bovington
Andalucía is the southernmost region of mainland Spain. It is the land of bullfighting, flamenco and gypsies. It is the land of high sierras, charming white villages and magnificent cities. It is the embodiment of Spain and yet its people think of themselves as Andalucian first and Spanish second - Andalucía became an autonomous community with its own parliament in Sevilla in 1982. The regional government - the Junta de Andalucía - administers things like taxes, health and most governmental day-to-day affairs. However, the Andalucian people have voted for independence from Spain. They already celebrate Andalucian day - on February 28 each year.
Andalucía is diverse - a country of extremes and its people live life to the full. Most British holidaymakers head for the beaches of the Costa del Sol. The more adventurous and perhaps slightly more cultured may venture further afield - perhaps to the cities of Málaga or Granada. Some might even visit the fantastic Alhambra! Most do not see the real Andalucía and miss an incredible array of cultural and ecological splendour.
There are eight provinces in Andalucía: Almería, Cádiz, Córdoba, Granada, Huelva, Jaén, Málaga and Sevilla and, within this land, the diversity of things to see is astounding. There are the green foothills of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada, the alluvial plains of the Guadalquivir River and the desert lands of Almería. There are fields of golden barley and yellow sunflowers, rolling hills of olive, almond, citrus and terraces of grape - all under an intense blue sky. Scattered across this spectacular fabric are the charming white villages that often cling precariously to the many mountain slopes in the region and the great cities like Granada, Sevilla and Córdoba.
Andalucía is the second largest region of Spain and the most densely populated yet it is seventy percent of the size of England but with only seven million people and most of these are congregated around the Costa del Sol - poor sods. The result is that there are many wide open spaces and a lot of these are conservation areas. In 2005, Spain had 1.6 million hectares of protected landscape representing 9.1% of the total area - the highest in Europe. Andalucía, however, had a whopping 18.92 per cent! One hundred and sixty three actual sites were under some sort of protection including two National Parks (Sierra Nevada and Doñana), twenty-four Natural Parks and eight Biosphere Reserves.
The areas that I have visited are delightful places to visit, walk, drive or live. The Sierra Nevada is a favourite of mine and it is the location of the highest mountain in mainland Spain, Mulhacén. It also has the charming Alpujarras spread across its southern slopes. The Doñana National Park is the largest of Spain's national parks and has three distinct ecosystems: the salt marshes, the brushwood and the salt dunes. An amazing array of fauna and flora is to be found there. The same can be said of another favourite of mine - the Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata-Níjar to give it its full title. Located a short distance from Almería, some of its species of flora are unique to the area - like the pink snapdragon antirrhinum charidemi. This park really mirrors the diversity of the region - it is volcanic in origin and comprises coastal dunes, steep cliffs, spectacular beaches, salt marshes, saltpans, arid steppe inland, dry riverbeds and a substantial marine zone. It is probably this ecological diversity that has led to the park being designated a UNESCO Biosphere reserve.
Near Ronda there are other beautiful protected areas including the Sierra de las Nieves and the Sierra de Grazalema. I discovered the former when I drove from Fuengirola to Ronda via Tolox and Coín, a longer but much more splendid drive than the more direct route via Marbella. When I visited the Sierra de Grazalema I decided that I liked it even more than the Alpujarras. It too has charming pueblos blancos - like Zahara de la Sierra, which is reckoned to be one of the most attractive of the 'White Villages of Andalucía'. Grazalema too is delightful. However there are charming white villages throughout the region - many clinging precariously to hillsides.
It is not just countryside that has been afforded protection - buildings too are on the list of protected sites. For example, the Alhambra Palace in Granada is a World Heritage site - but then the great cities of Andalucía are magnificent - Sevilla with its Cathedral and the Giralda - Córdoba and the Mezquita - Granada.
The reason for this splendour was the great influence of Muslim rule on Andalucian culture. The Moors ruled over this region for eight hundred years until the Catholic Monarchs re-conquered Granada in 1492. These Arabs and Berbers of Muslim faith had a profound effect on architecture; agriculture and the arts in this region whose name, incidentally, was derived from the Arabic name "Al Andalus".
There are other fine towns in the region: Cádiz is purportedly Europe's oldest city, Ronda is the largest of the 'White Towns' and the birthplace of bullfighting, Baeza and Ubeda have magnificent Renaissance buildings and Almería has the imposing Alcazaba - also built by the enterprising Moors.
Yes - these Arab peoples built some of the most marvellous buildings in Spain and introduced irrigation systems that are still in use today in places like the Alpujarras. It beats planting bombs and running corner shops! But I digress.
Andalucía has so many wide open spaces, delightful countryside and magnificent cities that it amazes me that most holidaymakers head for the Costa del Sol. However I hope they continue to do so - the beauty of this delightful region is enhanced by the fact that most of it is not despoiled by mass tourism. I don't want English bars in the Alpujarras thank you!
Robert Bovington
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| map of Andalucía © Robert Bovington |
Andalucía is diverse - a country of extremes and its people live life to the full. Most British holidaymakers head for the beaches of the Costa del Sol. The more adventurous and perhaps slightly more cultured may venture further afield - perhaps to the cities of Málaga or Granada. Some might even visit the fantastic Alhambra! Most do not see the real Andalucía and miss an incredible array of cultural and ecological splendour.
There are eight provinces in Andalucía: Almería, Cádiz, Córdoba, Granada, Huelva, Jaén, Málaga and Sevilla and, within this land, the diversity of things to see is astounding. There are the green foothills of the snow-capped Sierra Nevada, the alluvial plains of the Guadalquivir River and the desert lands of Almería. There are fields of golden barley and yellow sunflowers, rolling hills of olive, almond, citrus and terraces of grape - all under an intense blue sky. Scattered across this spectacular fabric are the charming white villages that often cling precariously to the many mountain slopes in the region and the great cities like Granada, Sevilla and Córdoba.
Andalucía is the second largest region of Spain and the most densely populated yet it is seventy percent of the size of England but with only seven million people and most of these are congregated around the Costa del Sol - poor sods. The result is that there are many wide open spaces and a lot of these are conservation areas. In 2005, Spain had 1.6 million hectares of protected landscape representing 9.1% of the total area - the highest in Europe. Andalucía, however, had a whopping 18.92 per cent! One hundred and sixty three actual sites were under some sort of protection including two National Parks (Sierra Nevada and Doñana), twenty-four Natural Parks and eight Biosphere Reserves.
The areas that I have visited are delightful places to visit, walk, drive or live. The Sierra Nevada is a favourite of mine and it is the location of the highest mountain in mainland Spain, Mulhacén. It also has the charming Alpujarras spread across its southern slopes. The Doñana National Park is the largest of Spain's national parks and has three distinct ecosystems: the salt marshes, the brushwood and the salt dunes. An amazing array of fauna and flora is to be found there. The same can be said of another favourite of mine - the Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata-Níjar to give it its full title. Located a short distance from Almería, some of its species of flora are unique to the area - like the pink snapdragon antirrhinum charidemi. This park really mirrors the diversity of the region - it is volcanic in origin and comprises coastal dunes, steep cliffs, spectacular beaches, salt marshes, saltpans, arid steppe inland, dry riverbeds and a substantial marine zone. It is probably this ecological diversity that has led to the park being designated a UNESCO Biosphere reserve.
Near Ronda there are other beautiful protected areas including the Sierra de las Nieves and the Sierra de Grazalema. I discovered the former when I drove from Fuengirola to Ronda via Tolox and Coín, a longer but much more splendid drive than the more direct route via Marbella. When I visited the Sierra de Grazalema I decided that I liked it even more than the Alpujarras. It too has charming pueblos blancos - like Zahara de la Sierra, which is reckoned to be one of the most attractive of the 'White Villages of Andalucía'. Grazalema too is delightful. However there are charming white villages throughout the region - many clinging precariously to hillsides.
It is not just countryside that has been afforded protection - buildings too are on the list of protected sites. For example, the Alhambra Palace in Granada is a World Heritage site - but then the great cities of Andalucía are magnificent - Sevilla with its Cathedral and the Giralda - Córdoba and the Mezquita - Granada.
The reason for this splendour was the great influence of Muslim rule on Andalucian culture. The Moors ruled over this region for eight hundred years until the Catholic Monarchs re-conquered Granada in 1492. These Arabs and Berbers of Muslim faith had a profound effect on architecture; agriculture and the arts in this region whose name, incidentally, was derived from the Arabic name "Al Andalus".
There are other fine towns in the region: Cádiz is purportedly Europe's oldest city, Ronda is the largest of the 'White Towns' and the birthplace of bullfighting, Baeza and Ubeda have magnificent Renaissance buildings and Almería has the imposing Alcazaba - also built by the enterprising Moors.
Yes - these Arab peoples built some of the most marvellous buildings in Spain and introduced irrigation systems that are still in use today in places like the Alpujarras. It beats planting bombs and running corner shops! But I digress.
Andalucía has so many wide open spaces, delightful countryside and magnificent cities that it amazes me that most holidaymakers head for the Costa del Sol. However I hope they continue to do so - the beauty of this delightful region is enhanced by the fact that most of it is not despoiled by mass tourism. I don't want English bars in the Alpujarras thank you!
Marbella
by Robert Bovington
Marbella is advertised in holiday brochures as the most exclusive resort on the Costa del Sol, which could possibly mean that if people haven’t got loads of money they are excluded! Certainly it is the playground of the rich and famous – and infamous! Film stars and footballers rub shoulders with foreign royalty but the town has also been the haunt of crooks and undesirables including the Russian Mafia and Osama Bin Laden though, to be fair, this was before he embarked on his terrorism career. Even local government has been corrupt there – so much so, that the Spanish government took the unprecedented step of suspending the Marbella council.
However, the town is a major tourist centre and for good reason. This jet setting resort has hotels, villas and mansions fit for kings yet despite its opulence it has a perfectly preserved old town. This old Moorish quarter is a warren of narrow twisting streets and alleyways. Small restaurants, cafés and boutiques occupy many of the whitewashed buildings that often have wrought iron balconies festooned with geraniums or bougainvillaea. This part of Marbella is extremely photogenic and is a mix of Moorish and Christian architecture because the old houses are interspersed with the occasional church.
The heart of the old town is the delightfully named Plaza de los Naranjos – so called because of its orange trees. Attractive buildings surround the square including the 16th century Town Hall. There are several outdoor cafés here and it is the perfect place to unwind over a glass of beer.
A couple of miles away is Puerto Banús. Here you can see how the rich spend some of their ill-gotten gains, as many luxury yachts are berthed at the marina in this chic suburb of Marbella.
more blogs by Robert Bovington...
Marbella is advertised in holiday brochures as the most exclusive resort on the Costa del Sol, which could possibly mean that if people haven’t got loads of money they are excluded! Certainly it is the playground of the rich and famous – and infamous! Film stars and footballers rub shoulders with foreign royalty but the town has also been the haunt of crooks and undesirables including the Russian Mafia and Osama Bin Laden though, to be fair, this was before he embarked on his terrorism career. Even local government has been corrupt there – so much so, that the Spanish government took the unprecedented step of suspending the Marbella council.
However, the town is a major tourist centre and for good reason. This jet setting resort has hotels, villas and mansions fit for kings yet despite its opulence it has a perfectly preserved old town. This old Moorish quarter is a warren of narrow twisting streets and alleyways. Small restaurants, cafés and boutiques occupy many of the whitewashed buildings that often have wrought iron balconies festooned with geraniums or bougainvillaea. This part of Marbella is extremely photogenic and is a mix of Moorish and Christian architecture because the old houses are interspersed with the occasional church.
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| Plaza de los Naranjos |
A couple of miles away is Puerto Banús. Here you can see how the rich spend some of their ill-gotten gains, as many luxury yachts are berthed at the marina in this chic suburb of Marbella.
more blogs by Robert Bovington...
"Photographs of Spain" | |
"postcards from Spain" | |
"you couldn't make it up!" | |
"a grumpy old man in Spain" | |
"bits and bobs" | |
"Spanish Expressions" | |
"Spanish Art" | |
"Books About Spain" |
Los Vélez
by Robert Bovington
Los Vélez is situated in the Sierra de Maria in the north of the province of Almería. Within this area is the impressive Parque Natural de María-Los Vélez as well as the twin towns of Vélez Blanco and Vélez Rubio.
Vélez Blanco is a typical pueblo blanco with its whitewashed houses nestling at the foot of a rocky outcrop. At the top of this prominence, a majestic castle looms over the town. It was built in the 16th century on the orders of the first Marquis of Vélez. Unfortunately, only the impressive exterior of the fortress remains - the insides are in New York, on display in the Metropolitan Museum.
There are a number of fine religious buildings in the town. The 16th century parish church of Santiago mixes Gothic, Renaissance and Mudéjar elements. The Church of Magdalena was built on the ruins of an old mosque whilst the Convent of San Luís was also built in the 16th century.
A few miles away is Vélez Rubio. It is a small town with several mansions and a number of religious buildings. One of the churches is quite magnificent - the Baroque Church of La Encarnación which was built in the 18th century. The twin bell-towers dominate the town's skyline.
Another important building in Vélez Rubio is the former 18th century Royal Hospital, which houses a museum, dedicated to local history.
Despite the historic monuments in the two towns, Los Vélez is better known for its caves, which have UNESCO World Heritage status, particularly the Cueva de los Letreros which is situated between Vélez Blanco and Vélez Rubio. It was here that prehistoric wall paintings were discovered in the 18th century. The cave was declared a National Monument in 1924. One of the paintings, the Indalo, is the symbol of the province of Almería.
Robert Bovington
Roquetas de Mar
December 2011
Los Vélez is situated in the Sierra de Maria in the north of the province of Almería. Within this area is the impressive Parque Natural de María-Los Vélez as well as the twin towns of Vélez Blanco and Vélez Rubio.
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| Castillo Vélez-Blanco - Juan José Rodríguez |
Vélez Blanco is a typical pueblo blanco with its whitewashed houses nestling at the foot of a rocky outcrop. At the top of this prominence, a majestic castle looms over the town. It was built in the 16th century on the orders of the first Marquis of Vélez. Unfortunately, only the impressive exterior of the fortress remains - the insides are in New York, on display in the Metropolitan Museum.
There are a number of fine religious buildings in the town. The 16th century parish church of Santiago mixes Gothic, Renaissance and Mudéjar elements. The Church of Magdalena was built on the ruins of an old mosque whilst the Convent of San Luís was also built in the 16th century.
A few miles away is Vélez Rubio. It is a small town with several mansions and a number of religious buildings. One of the churches is quite magnificent - the Baroque Church of La Encarnación which was built in the 18th century. The twin bell-towers dominate the town's skyline.
Another important building in Vélez Rubio is the former 18th century Royal Hospital, which houses a museum, dedicated to local history.
Despite the historic monuments in the two towns, Los Vélez is better known for its caves, which have UNESCO World Heritage status, particularly the Cueva de los Letreros which is situated between Vélez Blanco and Vélez Rubio. It was here that prehistoric wall paintings were discovered in the 18th century. The cave was declared a National Monument in 1924. One of the paintings, the Indalo, is the symbol of the province of Almería.
Robert Bovington
Roquetas de Mar
December 2011
more blogs by Robert Bovington...
"Photographs of Spain" | |
"postcards from Spain" | |
"you couldn't make it up!" | |
"a grumpy old man in Spain" | |
"bits and bobs" | |
"Spanish Expressions" | |
"Spanish Art" | |
"Books About Spain" |
Friday, 2 December 2011
Nerja and Frigliana
Robert Bovington
On the way back from a trip to Gibraltar, I stopped for a couple of hours at the delightful town of Nerja.
There are more photographs on my Picasa Nerja and Frigliana Album. To see them, please click on the link below...
On the way back from a trip to Gibraltar, I stopped for a couple of hours at the delightful town of Nerja.
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| Nerja - view from Balcón de Europa |
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| Frigliana |
There are more photographs on my Picasa Nerja and Frigliana Album. To see them, please click on the link below...
Saturday, 26 November 2011
Mijas (a pueblo blanco nr Málaga)
There are many pueblo blancos in the province of Málaga including my favourite, Mijas. It is situated in the foothills of the coastal mountain range that overlooks the coast. The town's maze of old Moorish streets are awash with colour - pottery, basketwork and other goods are displayed in the many shops and colourful floral displays adorn the walls of the houses. Mijas is a good place to get away from the urban sprawl of Fuengirola.
I just like walking the steep narrow streets and admiring the little houses with their white facades adorned by colourful pots of flowers.
On one occasion, I walked up to the little chapel, the 'Calvario Hermitage', on the hill high above Mijas. It was rather a strenuous climb amidst pine trees and I wished, at the time, that I had picked a colder day to do it but once there I enjoyed the views and the well-earned rest.
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| Calvario Hermitage |
Another chapel in Mijas is the Hermitage of the Virgen de la Peña, the patron saint of Mijas. Mercedarian monks built the chapel in 1520 and inside is a carved wooden image of the virgin allegedly dating back to AD850. It is a delightful little building, although I find it a bit incongruous that, just like a number of ancient churches that I have visited in recent years, it has electronic candles rather than the real thing!
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| Hermitage of the Virgen de la Peña |
My favourite place is 'La Muralla' - a park with balconies from where one can view the coast below. It is a quiet oasis away from the bustle of tourists, yet is only a few minutes walk from the centre - just up past the Plaza de Toros.
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| La Muralla |
Robert Bovington
Benidorm
by Robert Bovington
Twenty-nine years ago, my wife and I enjoyed a two-week package tour holiday in Benidorm. Yes, really - we enjoyed it!
I am not quite sure how we came to decide to visit the Costa Blanca for a holiday - perhaps it was cheap - I can't remember.
Initially the resort itself didn't impress us too much. It appeared to suffer from all the worst excesses of mass tourism. High rise hotels and apartment blocks, restaurants that served "full English breakfast", burger bars, discos and nightclubs.
Even back then we weren't really into lazing on the beach - nor were we party animals. Our idea of a good holiday was to do some sightseeing that maybe included a visit to a museum. We might go for a walk in the countryside making sure that we visited a hostelry for a midday drink or two. So how come we found Benidorm so enjoyable?
For a start, the town is handily placed to visit some delightful places in the province of Alicante. On our holiday we went to Altea, Guadalest, Alicante and the Isla de Benidorm.
Altea is a pretty little town only ten kilometres north of Benidorm. The old village comprises a labyrinth of narrow alleys between whitewashed houses, dominated by a blue-domed church. The only problem is that one has to climb more than two hundred steps to reach it! However, it is well worth the effort.
Guadalest is quite spectacular. This mountain village is carved out of a mountaintop and breathtaking views can be enjoyed there, especially from the tower of the castle Peñon de la Alcalá. This ancient citadel towers over the village which itself is picturesque with its artists' workshops, cafes and museums. It is well worth a visit if you can tear yourself away from the beaches and bars of Benidorm. You won't be alone, however, because Guadalest is one of the top tourist attractions in Spain. It will still be less crowded than Benidorm's beaches though!
The little island that can be seen from the beaches of Benidorm is a nice place to visit if you fancy a picnic. It is called la Isla de Benidorm because it is an island near Benidorm! Boats leaving the port take about 20 minutes to get there. The island is uninhabited except for a summer bar and hundreds of birds - the feathered variety - you need to visit Benidorm's discos and nightclubs for the other sort. Boat trips can be taken to other places along the coast such as Calpe, a pleasant place to visit despite modern day colonisation - there are Northern European establishments including British bars serving full English breakfasts and pints of bitter. The town is a mix of old and new and has a traditional fishing village and a quaint old quarter. The Peñon de Ifach, a 332 metre rocky outcrop that serves as a nature reserve, looms over the town.
Alicante, the capital of the province, is worth a visit. It has a castle, a marina, parks, promenades, museums and art galleries. In my view it is much more interesting than Benidorm. We visited by train. It was a pleasant journey travelling between Benidorm and Alicante along the narrow-gauge track. Another excellent train journey from Benidorm is on the Limón Express. It is a narrow-gauge vintage train. It is called the Limón Express because it is painted a sort of lemony colour. Travelling on this train is more of an excursion than a means of getting from Benidorm to Gata de Gorgos. At this destination passengers can visit a guitar factory or watch artisans at work making basketwork. The little train passes through spectacular landscape - enough to make you intoxicated if the champagne that is served to passengers doesn't!
We did a few touristy things like going to a medieval banquet where we watched jousting whilst tucking into heaps of barbecued food and great quantities of wine. We went on a trip to the mountains where we rode on a donkey to a picnic site, ate our packed lunch and consumed further great quantities of wine.
So even we museum hopping, party poopers enjoyed Benidorm and I would guess that many people still do. All the things that we enjoyed are still available and more. There are theme parks, water sports, night-clubs, discos, restaurants and bars galore.
Benidorm has also endeavoured to improve its image. Over the last couple of decades it has tried to appeal to all types of people not just the working classes of Northern Europe looking for a cheap foreign holiday. In a lot of ways it has succeeded. It is said that it is now the cultural centre of the Costa Blanca - I wouldn't go as far as that. It has a healthy pop music culture - many top artists have appeared there including Bob Dylan and the Rolling Stones. The International Song Festival is held there annually. However for what I call culture - classical music, opera, museums, art galleries and historical architecture then surely Alicante and Elche or, further afield, Valencia need to be visited.
However I will concede that Benidorm is an extremely popular holiday destination. It has come a long way from the small fishing village of the 1950s.
Robert Bovington
Roquetas de Mar
November 2011
Twenty-nine years ago, my wife and I enjoyed a two-week package tour holiday in Benidorm. Yes, really - we enjoyed it!
 |
| Benidorm 1982 |
I am not quite sure how we came to decide to visit the Costa Blanca for a holiday - perhaps it was cheap - I can't remember.
Initially the resort itself didn't impress us too much. It appeared to suffer from all the worst excesses of mass tourism. High rise hotels and apartment blocks, restaurants that served "full English breakfast", burger bars, discos and nightclubs.
Even back then we weren't really into lazing on the beach - nor were we party animals. Our idea of a good holiday was to do some sightseeing that maybe included a visit to a museum. We might go for a walk in the countryside making sure that we visited a hostelry for a midday drink or two. So how come we found Benidorm so enjoyable?
For a start, the town is handily placed to visit some delightful places in the province of Alicante. On our holiday we went to Altea, Guadalest, Alicante and the Isla de Benidorm.
Altea is a pretty little town only ten kilometres north of Benidorm. The old village comprises a labyrinth of narrow alleys between whitewashed houses, dominated by a blue-domed church. The only problem is that one has to climb more than two hundred steps to reach it! However, it is well worth the effort.
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| Guadalest |
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| La Isla de Benidorm |
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| Mirador del Castillo |
We did do a little swimming and sunbathing during our fortnight in Benidorm but not on the crowded Levante or Poniente beaches. Instead we made our way to the little beach near the Mirador del Castillo. We much preferred the old town of Benidorm with its Spanish bars rather than the International bars and restaurants and had excellent paella, the speciality of this region, in one of the establishments near the Mirador.
I have to confess, though, that most evenings were spent in one of the hundreds of International bars. I had good reason - the 1982 World Cup was being held in Spain whilst we were there! It was the first time that I had encountered large screen TVs in bars. Many establishments also had live entertainment - a band playing on one side of the room - a football match on the other side. We positioned ourselves in the middle so that my wife could face the music whilst I watched the World Cup - I faced the music later for watching football on holiday!We did a few touristy things like going to a medieval banquet where we watched jousting whilst tucking into heaps of barbecued food and great quantities of wine. We went on a trip to the mountains where we rode on a donkey to a picnic site, ate our packed lunch and consumed further great quantities of wine.
So even we museum hopping, party poopers enjoyed Benidorm and I would guess that many people still do. All the things that we enjoyed are still available and more. There are theme parks, water sports, night-clubs, discos, restaurants and bars galore.
Benidorm has also endeavoured to improve its image. Over the last couple of decades it has tried to appeal to all types of people not just the working classes of Northern Europe looking for a cheap foreign holiday. In a lot of ways it has succeeded. It is said that it is now the cultural centre of the Costa Blanca - I wouldn't go as far as that. It has a healthy pop music culture - many top artists have appeared there including Bob Dylan and the Rolling Stones. The International Song Festival is held there annually. However for what I call culture - classical music, opera, museums, art galleries and historical architecture then surely Alicante and Elche or, further afield, Valencia need to be visited.
However I will concede that Benidorm is an extremely popular holiday destination. It has come a long way from the small fishing village of the 1950s.
Robert Bovington
Roquetas de Mar
November 2011
Friday, 25 November 2011
Tabernas desert Almería
The Tabernas desert is the only true desert in Europe. It is located between the great rocky masses of the Sierra de los Filabres and the Sierra Alhamilla. The scenery here is startling - the arid yellow ochre landscape contrasts with the vivid blue Almerian sky. It is also 'Wild West' country - dozens of spaghetti westerns like 'A Fistful of Dollars' were made here and visits can be made to 'Mini Hollywood'. If you have children you should take them there - they will enjoy it. I did!
Robert Bovington
25 Nov 2011
Pigs to the slaughter | Olive Press Newspaper Spain | News
Pigs to the slaughter | Olive Press Newspaper Spain | News:
'via Blog this'
'via Blog this'
Interesting article about killing of pigs every November in Andalucía.
Wednesday, 23 November 2011
Gibraltar
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| Casemates Square |
Because Gibraltar is located on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula, I thought I would include it in this blog. Anyway, the Spanish contest ownership of the British colony! (though since they possess bits of the Moroccan mainland - Cueta & Melilla - I don't think can complain).
Gibraltar is a British overseas territory occupying a narrow peninsula overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar. 'The Rock' is just that - a colossal chunk of ancient limestone that was thrust up from the seabed millions of years ago to form what is now the highly visible Rock of Gibraltar.
Its history is inextricably linked to its strategic position. Its first important military encounter was in AD 711 when Tarik-ibn-Zeyed led a huge Moorish army that was to conquer most of the Iberian Peninsula. Moors and Christians fought many battles here during the 14th and 15th centuries and the Spanish Christians finally succeeded in dispatching the Arabs back to Africa in 1462. British forces took the Rock in 1704 during the War of the Spanish Succession and British sovereignty over Gibraltar was subsequently recognised by the 1713 Treaty of Utrecht.
Gibraltar attractions include the Upper Rock Nature Reserve. Some 500 species of small flowering plants grow there as does wild olive and pine. As far as fauna is concerned, there are rabbits, foxes and monkeys! Yes, monkeys inhabit the Rock - the Barbary apes are the only wild monkeys in Europe. Other attractions include St Michael's Cave, the Moorish Castle and the Great Siege Tunnels.
Down in the town centre, Main Street is unmistakably British with Marks and Spencer, BhS, pubs and bright red post boxes. Nearby Casemates Square, however, has a more continental air with many open-air cafes.
Contrary to popular belief the majority of Gibraltarians are not of English or Spanish ancestry - Genoese, Maltese, and Portuguese formed the majority of the population when the Rock was ceded to Great Britain.
English is the official language, which is used for government and business purposes but many Gibraltarians speak Llanito, a mixture of English and Andalucian Spanish.
Robert Bovington
23 Nov 2011
https://plus.google.com/118235640981670233395/about
Gibraltar is a British overseas territory occupying a narrow peninsula overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar. 'The Rock' is just that - a colossal chunk of ancient limestone that was thrust up from the seabed millions of years ago to form what is now the highly visible Rock of Gibraltar.
Its history is inextricably linked to its strategic position. Its first important military encounter was in AD 711 when Tarik-ibn-Zeyed led a huge Moorish army that was to conquer most of the Iberian Peninsula. Moors and Christians fought many battles here during the 14th and 15th centuries and the Spanish Christians finally succeeded in dispatching the Arabs back to Africa in 1462. British forces took the Rock in 1704 during the War of the Spanish Succession and British sovereignty over Gibraltar was subsequently recognised by the 1713 Treaty of Utrecht.
Gibraltar attractions include the Upper Rock Nature Reserve. Some 500 species of small flowering plants grow there as does wild olive and pine. As far as fauna is concerned, there are rabbits, foxes and monkeys! Yes, monkeys inhabit the Rock - the Barbary apes are the only wild monkeys in Europe. Other attractions include St Michael's Cave, the Moorish Castle and the Great Siege Tunnels.
Down in the town centre, Main Street is unmistakably British with Marks and Spencer, BhS, pubs and bright red post boxes. Nearby Casemates Square, however, has a more continental air with many open-air cafes.
Contrary to popular belief the majority of Gibraltarians are not of English or Spanish ancestry - Genoese, Maltese, and Portuguese formed the majority of the population when the Rock was ceded to Great Britain.
English is the official language, which is used for government and business purposes but many Gibraltarians speak Llanito, a mixture of English and Andalucian Spanish.
Robert Bovington
23 Nov 2011
https://plus.google.com/118235640981670233395/about
Cartagena
by Robert Bovington
Cartagena is old. It already had an illustrious past when the Roman general, Scipio, renamed it Carthago Nova - New Carthage - in 209 BC.
The city is an important port and naval base but its glory days were in the past - a bit like Portsmouth and Chatham really! So when I visited Cartagena recently, I was expecting to see decrepit, run-down areas with old dreary houses. I was pleasantly surprised! What I encountered was a bright airy city with pedestrianised boulevards and decorative buildings. One road in particular - Calle Major - is particularly attractive with shops, eating places and 19th-century mansions with colourful façades such as Cervantes House and Llagostera House both in Modernist style. The Grand Hotel is another building in this road that has modernist influences and a spectacular dome caps its circular façade.
***text from SPANISH IMPRESSIONS
ISBN: 1445225433 ISBN-13: 9781445225432 ***
Robert Bovington
Cartagena is old. It already had an illustrious past when the Roman general, Scipio, renamed it Carthago Nova - New Carthage - in 209 BC.
The city is an important port and naval base but its glory days were in the past - a bit like Portsmouth and Chatham really! So when I visited Cartagena recently, I was expecting to see decrepit, run-down areas with old dreary houses. I was pleasantly surprised! What I encountered was a bright airy city with pedestrianised boulevards and decorative buildings. One road in particular - Calle Major - is particularly attractive with shops, eating places and 19th-century mansions with colourful façades such as Cervantes House and Llagostera House both in Modernist style. The Grand Hotel is another building in this road that has modernist influences and a spectacular dome caps its circular façade.
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| Cartagena_Gran Hotel |
There are attractive and historical buildings throughout the city as well as museums - many of a naval and military nature. There are also a number of archaeological sites including Carthaginian and Roman ruins.
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| Ayuntamiento |
At one end of Calle Major is another extremely photogenic area - the Plaza de Ayuntamiento where the City Hall building is located. Nearby are attractive gardens that lead to the Paseo de Alfonso XII, which overlooks the marina. It is a pleasant place to sit with a glass of beer. The Peral Submarine is located on this promenade.
According to local tourist information Isaac Peral, invented the submarine in 1889. Whilst Senor Peral undoubtedly designed the fine specimen of a U-boat that is on display, the locals are wrong to allege that he invented the submarine - a Dutchman, Cornelis Drebbel, built the first one in 1620! Submarines were also used during the American Civil War (1861-65).
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| Cartagena - modernista building in Calle Mayor |
***text from SPANISH IMPRESSIONS
ISBN: 1445225433 ISBN-13: 9781445225432 ***
Robert Bovington
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